Combining the classical aesthetics of De Bethune's earliest offerings with the more futuristic, avant-garde styles they have come to be known for, this DB16 balances the two sides with flair, creating a remarkable watch for the modern collector. One of De Bethune's most complicated watches, only a small number of examples were created in 2013, making this an elusive and rare find.

This DB16 was first introduced in 2013, just over ten years after the brand's conception. An extremely complicated piece, the watch combined the two sides of De Bethune's style up to this point – the classical, understated design of their dial, adhering to a very traditional aesthetic, compared to the reverse of the watch, where we see a sleeker, more futuristic appearance on the movement. Rather than being a jarring experience, the watch balances these two styles fluidly, with the DB16 almost acting as a transitional piece between both aesthetics and demonstrating the full range of what De Bethune could achieve.

The 43mm rose gold case has a classic profile, and features the signature De Bethune traits, with a finely finished, high polished case and solid lugs with ogival, or bullet-shaped, ends. In more futuristic iterations, we see a different version of this feature, with hollowed out lugs and differing sizes but retaining the distinctive ogival shape.

The dial is elegantly balanced, as placed at 12 o'clock is De Bethune's three-dimensional, spherical moon phase indication and accompanying stars dotted throughout the sub-dial. Directly below that, at 6 o'clock, is the date indicator sub-dial, with a slightly raised chapter ring with blue indices representing the dates. The day and month indicators are placed at 9 and 3 o'clock respectively, in small rectangular apertures that are relatively unobtrusive, with lettering in blue. Around the rim of the dial is a matte chapter ring where the blue Roman hour numerals are printed, in addition to seconds indications. The chapter ring is raised from the rest of the dial, giving it further depth, while a sunburst pattern can be seen across the centre of the dial, radiating from the moonphase indication, providing added texture.

This DB16 is powered by the calibre DB2509, which consists of 499 parts, and is packed with De Bethune innovations such as their self-regulating twin barrel, a silicon annular balance with a white gold ring, a balance spring with a flat terminal curve, retrograde moon indication, and tourbillon with silicon and titanium escape wheel, in addition to the deadbeat seconds and spherical moon phase indication, which are placed on the front of the dial. A power reserve can be seen at the top of the movement, with 4 days of power when fully wound.

The movement is visually dominated by the skeletonised, delta-shaped bridge, mirrored by a smaller blued delta piece placed on top, as well as screws topped with rubies. A tourbillon can be seen on the left, held down by a striking, heat-blued bridge and the silicon and titanium cage below. Putting the tourbillon on the back, rather than the front of the movement, is a fairly traditional placement, while a retrograde moonphase indicator is below the main bridge, which facilitates the setting of the main spherical moonphase. The bridge and the baseplate wear Côtes de Bethune, the brands signature mirrored style of striping. Additionally, beautiful finishing can be found throughout, with sharp anglage, black polishing, and other form all coming together to create a layered, highly textured impression.

Closer look

Condition

This De Bethune DB16R is in very good overall condition. The case and lugs show light superficial marks, only on the very surface of the material, more specifically a scratch between the lugs at six o'clock, which is partially hidden by the strap. The dial, hands, and movement are free from any signs of imperfections and have been well preserved. The hallmarks on both the caseback rim and buckle are crisp and well defined.

Warranty

The watch comes with a two-year, limited warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.